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The Smallmouth Turnpike
by Al Pugh

The Problem

Re-spooling, organizing, or even ordering new tackle are all pretty standard means to cope with cabin fever - to maintain sanity when we can’t manage to wet a line, for whatever combinations of reasons. But then I’ve never been accused of being too awfully sane. Besides, why give up my personal ritual of changing line at the last minute just before launching, right there at the ramp? I’m a traditionalist; I like rituals. So, in an effort to combat the various "I’d rather be fishing" maladies - spring fever, rainy day blues, cabin fever, honey-do weekend, etc.…I needed a plan.

The Plan

Actually, the solution proved to be easy; I’d just think about fishing, and plan a few trips. Where I want to go, hotspots that might be close by, but previously ignored, or even identifying rivers about which I know the least, but want to know the most.

By the way, on the subject of trips and planning, I am a very fast learner. To illustrate, in less than 25 years, and all on my own, I have figured out that my blushing bride and financial officer is able to better cope with well-planned fishing trips (with ample notice provided, of course), than she does with the ones I just mention in passing. As in, just as I’m passing her in the hallway on my way out the front door – doing that seems to make her nervous. So, for all of the above reasons, and certainly for the sake of domestic tranquility and a continued supply of home cookin’, I am one plannin’ dude.

But planning too rigidly can have drawbacks - the weatherman may not realize that "the" weekend was booked months in advance. We’d all like to be able to go fishing on a whim, and certainly each time we step outside on a pretty day, as in, "Now, today’s the day to go fishing." Yeah, right. However, planning can be a backhanded blessing in that it forces us to deal with all sorts of circumstances. If we’re not careful, we may learn something that runs counter to conventional wisdom. I really like that.

On with the planning session! I think I’ll start with Bob Porter and Paul Crawford in Florida, then leisurely work my way north again, and maybe finish up with Cap’n Jack Duggins in Maine. Okay, so back to reality Al, it’s the Smallmouth Turnpike for you. Can’t find it on Mapquest? Maybe you ought to check under its other name; I believe they call it Interstate 81.

The Turnpike

Northbound from east of Knoxville, Interstate 81 enters western Virginia at the Tennessee border, runs around the "belly" of West Virginia, swings up through "Virginia’s Valley," the Shenandoah, and then on up and through Pennsylvania. From the Holston watershed to the New, the James, Shenandoah, Potomac, and then the Susquehanna watersheds, she provides access to righteously beautiful vistas; it’s a veritable river bronzeback Valhalla. Maybe that’s a mite strong, but the fishin’ is pretty durn good, and I think I-81 in Virginia has well earned the honor of the title Smallmouth Turnpike.

First Stop - The Holston

Early in the year I’d like to be on the Holston. Barry Loupe, formerly a guide and a great buddy, likes it then, too, and Virginia’s first designated trophy smallmouth river yields some serious riverine bruisers. While I’m down there, I want to stop by Butch Neal’s custom tackle shop in Abingdon. Barry throws Butch’s 1/8-ounce jigs just about exclusively early in the year. He waits on warmer water to switch to 9S-Series Senkos in earth tones, but those jigs work all year long.

The New River

The Smallmouth Turnpike provides all sorts of access points along the New River Valley, from upstream of Claytor Dam off US 19 or I-77, to downstream of the dam off US 460. With that much New River available, I’ll save planning the West Virginia section for its own article. Since the New River flows north (not many do), it warms earlier in the year, and cools later. With its flow volume, it’s not likely to have the swings in temps that smaller rivers often do. I’ll have to get Barry to hit the New with me, too, since he can easily get to both sides of Claytor Dam.

I’ll also be keeping a close eye on the water temperature; if it approaches 58 degrees, I’ll need to get some of Butch’s spinnerbaits built. Since he builds them to each customer’s specifications, I’ll need to warn him ahead of time. Since the river temp can rise rapidly, I’m glad he doesn’t need too much warning. At least he and Barry will know what colors are going to be hot.

The River That Saw Pocahontas

Right off, let me tell you I got in trouble over that movie. When Pocahontas jumped off the waterfall on the James and fell long enough to do her hair and her nails on the way down, I cried foul. I knew good and well there is nothing that high on that river, not anywhere. But when I cried foul my wife cried, "Hush up Al, it’s in the script." Okay, so it may be in the script, but trust me on this one, it’s not in the river.

What is in the river are a lot of ledges and chunk rock. Most of these mid-Atlantic rivers are built similarly, ledges that slope at generally 45 degrees to the direction of flow, and 45 degrees up from the bottom, with ledge tops near the surface and troughs that may be 10 to 15 feet deep. These troughs just naturally need a dose of Phil’s rabbit hair jigs, Butch’s silicone jigs, a dark-colored Senko, or maybe a big, rough, black tube. Around these troughs the bass hunt the chunk rock, which can vary from basketball to couch sized. These are one of the more likely places to score with cranks and spinners, along with the other "trough" baits.

Upriver in Turnpike country, the James is not a wide river, but it’s a good one. It’s also a protected one, with the brownies sheltered thanks to a 14" to 22" slot limit. That’s right, 22 inches, plus, to be legal. Heck, I don’t keep them anyway. Mom and Pappy were right, if I put things back when I’m done messin’ with ‘em, they’ll be there for me later.

Cap’n Jack West knows that feeling and knows that River, and I really want to ride that custom raft he sells through the Balcony section. I know there are big fish there, some real monsters. I also know that baits for the New work just fine in the James. I know that Jack is a lot of fun, and as a former competitive white water canoe-ist (canoe-er?), I know he can handle the river. Here’s a note to myself: Remember to take one big nasty rod along on this stretch - there are Muskie in this section that will eat a momma duck, not just a few ducklings.

Oh, Shenandoah, I Love Your Smallies

Close to 80 miles of the Smallmouth Turnpike are in the Shenandoah watershed. In the Saunton area, the South River, Middle River, and North River flow toward Waynesboro to form the South Fork. The North Fork shows up further up the Turnpike, near New Market. Both forks flow north (sound familiar?) to join at Front Royal, and the main stem continues north to Harper’s Ferry and the Potomac River.

I want to fish it, but I don’t want to hurt it. Please, if you’re planning a trip like this, check these headwaters carefully. When the water gets really low in streams like the South, Middle, and North Rivers or the North Fork, a little fishing pressure can do a lot of damage. Indiscriminate fun for the early birds could compromise the resident kids’ fun for years. It’s happened on other rivers.

I’ll split this watershed among Lou Kalina (Lou’s Guide Service), former guide Lou Giusto, Tim Freese (Smallmouth Specialists), and Jeff Kelble (Playin’ Hookie Guide Service). They all know these waters like the back of their hands. As for what to throw, well, the 9S-Series four-inch Senkos should continue to work well. The same tackle box I started with on the Holston will still do fine (except Tim has painted half his hard baits to match Gary Yamamoto’s 240 Smoke Blue).

George Washington’s River

Two of the four above, Tim and Jeff, are part of my game plan for the Potomac. It’s George Washington’s river because the canal he worked so hard on, to get it built all the way up the river (which finally did get done, but failed commercially) now provides an access throughout, for waders from the Maryland side. In fact, the canal’s towpath is a national park. However, the deep holes are in this year’s plan, and that means Tim’s jet, his raft, or Jeff’s raft. This river is really close to my work, so hopefully that means a few after-work trips. This is also the biggest river we’ve visited on the Turnpike so far, but the biggest is next.

The Wide Open Susquehanna

Now, I fish the Susquehanna the least of any river along the Smallmouth Turnpike, so my plans are pretty general. I want to fish it in a variety of conditions, and I want to start learning the bottom end, in one decent stretch. Attainable goals maybe, but realizing them will require a lot of time. Learning from someone else is a time shortcut, so I’ll check with Cabin Fever Tackle & Brooks Marine on US 11, north of Chambersburg. I might even get Brook to go fishing, if I manage to get there early enough to suit Brook’s coldwater fishing fetish. Maybe I’d better be headed out while you read the rest of this. I know I’ll have to really twist his arm. Yeah right, about two degrees of twist and he’ll be in the truck pattin’ his foot…"You coming Al, or are you still just planning?"

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